Good evening all. I am starting the process to design my own sluice (figure I should design for a few days before I jump in and build). I am lucky enough to have access to the local schools for some of the fab parts. So today I talked to one of the metals teachers and come to find out he is also new to prospecting and very intrested. He told me that if I come up with a set of plans we can easily build a sluice. He said I can use the sheer and brake any time I would like (yes I have had a little experience with these and a few other tools). He offered up some scrap pieces of glavanized tin. I am thinking more along the lines of using some aluminum. If you dont mind here is where I could use some direction.
What guage aluminum should I use?
What is a good bed width ? (the bottom of the sluice)
How high should I make the sides/walls?
What would be an ideal length? Looking for one kind of portable but not my main concern. I been thinking about 30" is this a good length???
Maurice
Replies
Heres one i have come up with
Its 1200mm long x 250 wide x 80 deep, powerhead is 300mm long, also o have a sluice head that fits to put in the river
If you want to get fancy, try this protractor from Home Dept(around $10.00). It has magnetic base so you may need to attach a small piece of metal to the sluice box. Set magnetic base on metal. Once you have your correct angle figured out take it off. The magnetic base doesn't bolt to anything. I've read everywhere that you want a 15 deg. angle. This will allow you to set up angle for best operation and be able to repeat it anywhere you go. Should be a good time saver. Base doesn't have to be exactly level either. Just read the angle before you start then add/subtract to the correct angle. example: base is at 5 deg angle. Raise the proper end of the sluice until you get reading of 20 deg. 20 - 5 = 15 deg angle.
Has lots of other uses when building, bending etc. for finding angles.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100165800/h_d2/ProductDispl...
Hay Thanks Mike. Funny thng is I have seem those at HD. But until you brought it to my attention I never even gave it a second thought.
maurice what you have should work its just that you need to seal it i have seen ppl use a rubber rize plastic tape for that purpose they just tape the seam and when done remove it so the flair can be folded back up its not the way i woud go but it does work as a temp thing
the main thing is to seal it so nuthing can get under the seam
maurice if you dont fine the rib v matting holler i have some .
Thank you Ken. That is very nice of you. That is why I like this site so much. People helping people
very true howard
Most of your "Big Box" hardware stores will carry a form of small ribbed matting, it is used for runner for a non slip surface across walkways or on steps. It is usually a smaller ribbing than the deep rib stuff the prospecting stores carry, but will work just fine. I have it covering the entire floor of my homemade sluice under the carpet. when I finish sluicing, I merely remove the carpet/ expanded and riffles. And now it can be used as a clean up sluice. Easy pleasy!
you should be able to find the v matting i am refering to at home dept or lows the vortex matting we have talked about i dont know of anyplace in montana to tell you to try to find it at
i havent seen any pics of how you have it set up yet it a matter of opion and what it dpes when you use it some foldeing sluices have a rubber seal between the seam if you use a piece of the rib v mat where the seam is just to the sluice it should do the trick of stopeing any thing going under tht box between the flair and box
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