Thanks Fella's Glad Ya'll like it, This is a Project Anyone can do. Cut a pice of Plywood wider and longer than the sluice you intend to use, mark out the center, place the sluice at one end centered place some L-Metal on ether side and Screw in place, check to make sure the box moves freely now your ready to mount the motor. Check the arm Distance at its longest Stroke and Bolt in Place now you can connect the two. Mount your spray bar to the wood close to the top of the sluice with L-Metal on Bolth sides Boom now you've got a Shaker. I think I am going to Add More Riffles, and slow Down the Water Flow, and Shorten the Stroke. Thanks agin Everyone, Dennis. "You Can Do It"
Looking good, Dennis: If the stroke is to long, you can shorten it by reducing the distance between the motor shaft, and the pivot arm. For instance, if the distance between the center of the motor shaft and the center of the pivot pin, is 3in you have a 6in stroke. You can use this to determine how long of a stroke you want. You can control the speed by getting an old wiper control switch. The old ones were just a rheostat ( the more you turned it, the faster the motor turned). Hope this helps.
Here is an update of the New Motor. I used a 12v Wipe Motor. The Stroke is longer and Slower it seams to make a wave, The Saw Seam to Beat the water. I need to work on the spray bar, now that the stroke is longer, it washes out the first space between riffles and the second has the wave.
@Spur, Forget about using actual gold. You can take copper BB's out of a shotgun shell and smack 'em with a hammer a bit so they are not so round. You can also use tiny lead split shot. Count them up, like say 50 pcs, and then mix them up with a half gallon of classified gravels and if ya have some black sand, toss in a couple table spoons to the mix. If your rig saves all the copper (or lead or both) you got a winner! Using copper and lead actually is a help for those learning to pan. If you can keep the copper in your pan, you have nothing to worry about 'cause the gold is way heavier! I've actually saved a lot of steel from the band saws for this, and also cut copper up and catch the tiny little pieces.
Thanks Tim I finally Built one that Got your attention :) runs a little ruff but it's only for now until I can afford a Better one. @ CC It would be nice to have a Gram of Visible Free Gold then My Oll-Laidy would help me Prospect LOL, it's a quick Project I'm sure Ya'll can take this Idea and make it work better, but so far I've got $0. in it just an old tool. thanks for the bump idea wile finish panning I got the Idea to build this, I seen exactly what you mean. Now I need to Build a Crusher lol .)
I guess you will have to run some good materials through it to test how well it does, Like mix a gram of gold and black sands and materials and then weigh what stays in, etc. Most of the shaker tables I've seen have a bumper on one end to give the effect of like tapping on the edge of a pan to move the light stuff more than the heavy stuff in the direction of the bumper, normally at the discharge end. Maybe even add screen door springs on both sides, anchored to the base on the discharge end and to the slide table on the feed end giving it a bit of a slower back stroke as the springs stretch out. That's my 2 cents (What a dollar buys now as compared to when the FRN was "invented".)
Comments
Thanks Fella's Glad Ya'll like it, This is a Project Anyone can do. Cut a pice of Plywood wider and longer than the sluice you intend to use, mark out the center, place the sluice at one end centered place some L-Metal on ether side and Screw in place, check to make sure the box moves freely now your ready to mount the motor. Check the arm Distance at its longest Stroke and Bolt in Place now you can connect the two. Mount your spray bar to the wood close to the top of the sluice with L-Metal on Bolth sides Boom now you've got a Shaker. I think I am going to Add More Riffles, and slow Down the Water Flow, and Shorten the Stroke. Thanks agin Everyone, Dennis. "You Can Do It"
Dang Spur that looks good!!
great job spur
Looking good, Dennis: If the stroke is to long, you can shorten it by reducing the distance between the motor shaft, and the pivot arm. For instance, if the distance between the center of the motor shaft and the center of the pivot pin, is 3in you have a 6in stroke. You can use this to determine how long of a stroke you want. You can control the speed by getting an old wiper control switch. The old ones were just a rheostat ( the more you turned it, the faster the motor turned). Hope this helps.
Here is an update of the New Motor. I used a 12v Wipe Motor. The Stroke is longer and Slower it seams to make a wave, The Saw Seam to Beat the water. I need to work on the spray bar, now that the stroke is longer, it washes out the first space between riffles and the second has the wave.
@Spur, Forget about using actual gold. You can take copper BB's out of a shotgun shell and smack 'em with a hammer a bit so they are not so round. You can also use tiny lead split shot. Count them up, like say 50 pcs, and then mix them up with a half gallon of classified gravels and if ya have some black sand, toss in a couple table spoons to the mix. If your rig saves all the copper (or lead or both) you got a winner! Using copper and lead actually is a help for those learning to pan. If you can keep the copper in your pan, you have nothing to worry about 'cause the gold is way heavier! I've actually saved a lot of steel from the band saws for this, and also cut copper up and catch the tiny little pieces.
I like the way you think buddy ...
Thanks Tim I finally Built one that Got your attention :) runs a little ruff but it's only for now until I can afford a Better one. @ CC It would be nice to have a Gram of Visible Free Gold then My Oll-Laidy would help me Prospect LOL, it's a quick Project I'm sure Ya'll can take this Idea and make it work better, but so far I've got $0. in it just an old tool. thanks for the bump idea wile finish panning I got the Idea to build this, I seen exactly what you mean. Now I need to Build a Crusher lol .)
that is so cool spur
I guess you will have to run some good materials through it to test how well it does, Like mix a gram of gold and black sands and materials and then weigh what stays in, etc. Most of the shaker tables I've seen have a bumper on one end to give the effect of like tapping on the edge of a pan to move the light stuff more than the heavy stuff in the direction of the bumper, normally at the discharge end. Maybe even add screen door springs on both sides, anchored to the base on the discharge end and to the slide table on the feed end giving it a bit of a slower back stroke as the springs stretch out. That's my 2 cents (What a dollar buys now as compared to when the FRN was "invented".)
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